The Sneakerheads Racing to Save Their Kicks From Decay
Professor Nguyen agrees. He chuckles when told that collectors scatter silica gel packs around their heirloom shoes like confetti. “That would have a minimal effect,” he says. Being a man of science, though, he believes even the most vexing problems can be solved. He pauses to consider possible solutions. After careful analysis—placing the shoes in a vacuum is suggested, but quickly dismissed; if there’s plasticizer in the PU, it may seep out and cause degradation—he concludes that the only solution is to place the shoes in an airtight steel vessel filled with argon. Yeah, science!
“The PU would not degrade because argon has an extremely low chemical reactivity,” explains professor Nguyen. This is an old trick scientists use when they want to prevent an important lab sample (or their tuna sandwiches) from being degraded by undesirable chemical reactions, which frequently happen to be oxidation and hydrolysis.
It’s only a matter of time before some guy in Brooklyn starts churning out “artisanal” argon chambers constructed from cold rolled 18-gauge steel, and selling them to sneakerheads for an ungodly price.
Restoring History
For everyone else, there’s a thriving cottage industry of self-taught PU cobblers that specialize in what’s known in the sneaker trade as “sole swaps.” If, for instance, your 2001 Air Jordan Black Cement 3s fall into disrepair, send them to Justin Douglas in Fort Worth, Texas. Don’t forget to include the “donor” midsoles. A used pair of retro 2011 Black Cement 3s ($50-$125) will do nicely. For $250 more (excluding shipping), Douglas, who goes by his Instagram handle, Ammoskunk, will work his magic.
This isn’t just a cut-and-paste job. It’s a complex 13-step process that requires five to seven hours of tedious labor. Heat guns, electric routers, industrial solvents and glues—these are the tools of Ammoskunk’s trade. Re-stitching toe caps with a sewing awl. Fabricating “NIKE AIR” heel tabs by pouring resins in molds. This is some serious craftsmanship.
How good is Ammoskunk? “There are hundreds of people doing swaps, but only a handful of them can do what I do,” he says matter-of-factly. “Not to brag, but I’m the only one who’s been able to pull off a Jordan 2. You have to shave those soles out perfectly to make them fit.” Don’t expect a quick turn-around. Ammoskunk has a 3-month backlog.
For those on a budget, there’s a wealth of video tutorials that cover this bizarre DIY subculture in minute detail. Watching young men with Photoshop skills painting donor midsoles with Angelus Acrylic Leather Paint and fine-point “shader” brushes is quite a treat. Inside tip: Ever dreamed of bleaching the yellow out of the “icy” soles of your 2000 Laney Air Jordan 5s? Now you can. Sea Glow, a toxic chemical compound used to clean the hulls of fiberglass boats is caustic but quite effective. It’s fallen out of favor, though. Legends Sole Sauce is now the go-to product for rejuvenating “piss-yellow” polyurethane.
Shoe manufacturers claim that in recent years they’ve improved PU formulations with additives and stabilizers that prolong the life of midsoles. “We’re not making a product that lasts 20 or 30 years,” says Paul Litchfield, the VP of Reebok’s Advanced Concepts Group. “But we’ve conducted accelerated aging tests, and the shoes are lasting longer.” Exactly how much longer he won’t say, but it’s definitely “longer.” (We asked Nike about PU degradation and what might be done about it, but the company declined to comment.)
Vincent A. Haas, the marketing manager for performance materials at BASF, a major polyurethane manufacturer, says thermal plastic polyurethane (TPU), specifically BASF’s Infinergy brand, trumps garden-variety PU. The new Adidas “Boost” cushioning system is based on this proprietary TPU. Not only does Infinergy top PU in energy return and compression set tests (94 percent vs 75 percent), Haas says it’s a far more stable compound. Asked if his TPU soles will crumble, Haas replies confidently, “That problem doesn’t exist.” He’s hesitant, however to quote an expiration date. Pressed for an answer, he gives Nike a jab. “I’ll say this: 20 years from now, our shoes will still be wearable.”
Adidas has an exclusive licensing deal with BASF for the time being. But foam polyurethane shoes aren’t going away anytime soon. It’s an inexpensive and versatile material that shoe companies are reluctant to part with. And why should they? They’re focused on designing high-performance athletic shoes, not designing collectables that can be bequeathed to future generations.